C'è la storia e una tradizione sospesa tra Piemonte e Lombardia nel ristorante di Giancarlo Rebuscini. Il rigore è estremo, come il rispetto dei canoni di una memoria qui fatta di risotti (mano e mantecatura magistrale), pasta fatta in casa ma, soprattutto, agnolotti e tapulon, il piatto borgomanerese per eccellenza preparato con la carne d'asino tagliata a coltello e cotta nel vino rosso: bello sentirne il racconto dallo chef patron che, quando possibile, traversa il grande salone per prendere la comanda. Altro elemento di rito è il Gorgonzola, declinato anche in un soufflè che, da solo, vale il viaggio. Varia la scelta dei percorsi a 11 euro (in settimana anche la sera): una tradizione del “buono e fatto in casa” in una buona cucina che diventa democratica e "per tutti", fedele a quanto diceva Mario Soldati, altro grande narratore di DNA novarese con competente passione di vino e cibo. Un luogo di piaceri a tutto tondo, che si completa con la pasticceria e la gelateria, impeccabile. There is some history and tradition suspended between Piedmont and Lombardy in Giancarlo Rebuscini's restaurant. The rigor is brought to the extreme, such as the respect for canons of a memory that, here, is made of risotto (with masterful creaming preparation), homemade pasta but, above all, agnolotti and tapulon. The Borgomanero dish 'par excellence' prepared with knife-cut donkey meat and cooked in red wine. It is nice to hear the story from the 'chef de cuisine' himself who, whenever possible, crosses the large hall to take orders personally. Another ritual element is Gorgonzola, also declined in a soufflè which, alone, is worth the trip. The choice of 11-euro routes varies (during the week also in the evening): a tradition of “homemade” in a good cuisine that becomes democratic and “for everyone”, faithful to what Mario Soldati firmly believes. Soldati is another great narrator of the Novara “DNA” with a competent passion for wine and food. This is a place of all-round pleasures, which is nicely completed with the impeccable patisserie and ice-cream.
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