Una sala recentemente rinnovata negli arredi, resa ariosa dall’affresco fitomorfo sullo sfondo e dalle piante tropicali che ovunque occhieggiano dalle teche e dai vasi. Quella che già fu la sala di un caffè chantant d’inizio ‘900 s’illumina oggi al neon di una contemporaneità cosmopolita e delle velleità di un galantuomo napoletano di nome Emanuele Petrosino. Lui – che toglie le tovaglie dai tavoli ma riabilita al tavolo la cottura di piatti come il Dentice arrosto – tiene saldo il timone di questa ambasciata partenopea sotto ai portici bolognesi con premure affatto scontate e portate che sono veri e propri menù nel menù, come la sua Caprese o l’Insalata di mare, entrambe scandite in più servizi. Una matrioska molto mediterranea nell’indole, vedi la ricorrenza del pomodoro, dell’olio extravergine d’oliva e delle erbe aromatiche, che quando non cela più piatti nello stesso piatto è invece minuziosa nella cura dell’estetica al limite del manierismo: come la sua preziosa Marchigiana accompagnata da una speculare giardiniera; quasi una composizione rococò, invece, l’Uovo Fabergé: composizione tridimensionale e accuratissima di una giardiniera con uovo e caviale. Ma ci sono anche piatti autobiografici, come la Triglia alla puttanesca, omaggio alla grande cucina francese di cui Petrosino è stato discepolo o l’ormai celebre Spaghetto ai Pomodori, tributato a Nino Di Costanzo. Una cucina ad alto tasso di complessità in cui ricorre spesso il pomodoro soprattutto nel menu vegetariano.
This locale has a recently renovated and refurnished dining area, rendered airy by the phytomorphic mural on the walls and by the tropical plants which are everywhere in vases and display cases. This was once a caffè chantant at the beginning of the twentieth century, which now today is illuminated by contemporary cosmopolitan neon and by the whim of a Neapolitan gentleman called Emanuele Petrosino. He removes the tablecloths from the tables but amazes with dishes such as the roasted dentice. He keeps a firm hand on the helm of this Neapolitan embassy under the porticoes in Bologna with an unobvious kindness and dishes that are like menus within the menu. An example is his Caprese or the seafood salad, both served as multiple dishes. A very Mediterranean multilayered style is in his nature. You will witness the reoccurrence of the tomato, extra virgin olive oil and aromatic herbs, which when they do not conceal multiple dishes in the same dish, assist the chef in his scrupulous care of the aesthetics taken to the absolute limit. An example is his precious Marchigiana which is accompanied by a myriad of vegetables; it is almost Rococo in its composition. Instead the Uovo Fabergè is an extremely exact tridimensional composition with vegetables, egg and caviar. However, there are also autobiographical dishes, such as the triglia alla puttanesca, a homage to the great French tradition of which Petrosino was a disciple. Another is the celebrated spaghetto ai pomodori, a tribute to Nino Di Costanzo. It is a cuisine with a high grade of complexity in which the tomato is a reoccurring element, especially in the vegetarian menu.
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